I have spent years sitting across from clients who arrive with the clearest possible idea of what they want, yet struggle to describe it. They gesture at photographs, reach for metaphors, and occasionally apologise for not knowing “the proper words.” My response is always the same: the vocabulary of jewellery is not gatekeeping, it is a shared language, and learning even a handful of terms will transform every conversation you have with a jeweller.
This guide draws on the same jewellery terminology I use daily in my studio in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. Understanding these terms will help you communicate your vision with precision and evaluate the quality of what is placed in front of you.
Essential jewellery terms every buyer should know before commissioning a bespoke piece
Why Jewellery Terminology Matters
Bespoke jewellery is a conversation between maker and client. When that conversation is fluent on both sides, the result is almost always better. If I ask whether you prefer a court profile or a flat profile on your shank, and you know what those words mean, we save time and avoid expensive mistakes.
The Anatomy of a Ring
Think of a ring as a small piece of architecture. Each structural element has a name, a purpose, and a role in how the finished piece looks, feels, and wears.
The Shank
The band that encircles the finger. Profiles include flat (crisp, modern), D-shape (flat inside, curved outside), and court (curved both sides — my default for all-day wear). The sizing area at the bottom should always be unembellished for future adjustments.
The Shoulders
The sections of the shank that rise up towards the setting. May be adorned with accent stones, engraved, or sculpted. A cathedral shank splits into two arches; a tapered shank narrows elegantly to create visual slenderness.
The Setting (Head)
Holds the stone in place. Options include claw (maximum light), bezel (protective, modern), halo (apparent size increase), channel (clean, contemporary), and pavé (unbroken field of sparkle).
The Claws (Prongs)
Metal projections gripping the stone. Four claws allow maximum light; six offer greater security. I model claws at 0.80–1.20mm diameter. Round claws are traditional; flat or talon-shaped offer a contemporary feel.
The Gallery Rail
The decorative and structural element beneath the stone, between the claws. Invisible from above, but when you tilt the ring you see intricate metalwork, open filigree, or a clean curved wire. Often where the character of a fine ring is revealed.
The Bridge & Bridge Accent
The load-bearing element beneath the setting that contacts the finger. Minimum 1.20mm in CAD, never below 1.0mm finished. The bridge accent — a small diamond, milgrain border, or carved scroll — is the jeweller’s signature.
Understanding Gemstone Anatomy
Table
The large flat facet at the top of a faceted stone
Crown
The upper portion, from the table down to the widest point
Girdle
The narrow band at the widest point where claws grip
Pavilion
The lower portion tapering to the culet; angles determine light return
Culet
The tiny facet or point at the very bottom; needs 0.50mm clearance
The Language of Ring Styles
Solitaire: A single centre stone, elevated and unaccompanied.
Trilogy: Three stones symbolising past, present, and future.
Toi et Moi: Two stones together, representing two people. Napoleon’s engagement ring to Josephine is the iconic reference.
Eternity Band: Stones set continuously around the circumference, representing unbroken love.
Bypass Ring: The band curves past itself in an open spiral.
Cluster Ring: Multiple stones grouped to create the visual effect of a single larger stone.
Putting It All Together
At Silux London, every client consultation begins with exactly this kind of conversation. I believe that an educated client and an experienced designer produce better jewellery together. Explore the Silux London collection to see these principles in action, or book a bespoke consultation and let us begin with a conversation.
