I first encountered what is now called the moval cut diamond several years ago, long before it had a name in the mainstream market. I was working on a bespoke commission, and the client had brought me an antique stone that was neither quite oval nor quite marquise. It had the soft, rounded belly of an oval but tapered to gentle points at each end, like a marquise that had been smoothed by centuries of handling. I was fascinated. The stone had a presence on the finger that neither a standard oval nor a traditional marquise could achieve. It elongated the hand beautifully, yet it felt softer, more organic, than any marquise I had set before.
That stone planted a seed. Today, the moval cut has emerged as one of the most exciting diamond trends of 2026, and it is a shape that I believe was made for bespoke jewellery. At Silux London, I see in the moval form something deeply familiar, an echo of Persian architectural forms that have inspired my work since I first picked up a pencil at the School of Jewellery in Birmingham.
What Is a Moval Cut Diamond?
The moval cut is a hybrid diamond shape that sits between an oval and a marquise. The name itself is a portmanteau: marquise plus oval equals moval. Where a standard oval has uniformly rounded ends, and a marquise comes to sharp, defined points, the moval occupies the elegant middle ground. Its ends taper to soft points rather than sharp ones, and its body retains the generous, rounded profile of an oval.
The result is a stone that combines the best qualities of both parent shapes. From an oval, it inherits that flattering, elongating effect on the finger and a large face-up appearance relative to its carat weight. From a marquise, it gains a sense of direction and drama, a visual momentum that draws the eye along the length of the stone.
The moval is not a new invention. Antique stones with this hybrid profile have existed for centuries, cut by hand before the standardisation of modern diamond shapes. What is new is the deliberate cutting of moval diamonds to precise specifications, driven by demand from clients and designers who recognise the shape's unique appeal.
Moval vs Oval vs Marquise: Understanding the Differences
To appreciate the moval, it helps to understand what it is not.
An oval cut diamond is symmetrically rounded at both ends. Its length-to-width ratio typically ranges from 1.3:1 to 1.5:1. The oval is beloved for its brilliance, its finger-flattering shape, and its ability to appear larger than a round diamond of equivalent weight. It has been one of the most popular engagement ring shapes in the UK for several years.
A marquise cut diamond is pointed at both ends, creating a boat-like or eye-like silhouette. Its length-to-width ratio is usually between 1.75:1 and 2.25:1, making it the most elongated of the standard shapes. The marquise maximises carat weight along its length, creating a dramatic visual impact. However, its sharp points can be vulnerable to chipping and require protective settings.
The moval splits the difference. Its points are present but softened, typically described as slightly pointed or gently tapered rather than sharp. Its length-to-width ratio falls between that of a typical oval and a typical marquise, usually around 1.5:1 to 1.8:1. This creates a stone that is more elongated than an oval but less extreme than a marquise, with none of the vulnerability that comes with sharp points.
On the hand, the difference is immediately apparent. A moval has a gracefulness that an oval cannot quite achieve and a wearability that a marquise struggles to match. It is, in many ways, the Goldilocks of elongated diamond shapes.
Why the Moval Cut Is Having Its Moment in 2026
The moval's rise in 2026 is driven by several converging trends in the engagement ring market.
First, there is the ongoing desire for individuality. After years of oval dominance, couples are looking for shapes that feel fresh without being unfamiliar. The moval offers exactly this. It is recognisable enough to feel like a diamond engagement ring, yet distinctive enough to stand apart from the thousands of oval rings that fill social media feeds.
Second, the bespoke movement has made unusual cuts more accessible. A moval diamond is not something you will find in a high street jeweller's display case. It requires a designer who can source the stone and create a setting that honours its unique proportions. This exclusivity is precisely the point for couples who want a ring that cannot be replicated by walking into a shop.
The moval cut diamond is for couples who appreciate subtlety and distinction. It is not about being different for its own sake. It is about finding the shape that feels exactly right, even if that shape does not have a standard catalogue listing.
Third, there is a broader aesthetic shift towards softer, more organic forms in jewellery design. The clean geometric precision of princess cuts and emerald cuts remains beautiful, but 2026 is seeing a turn towards shapes that feel more natural, more human. The moval, with its gentle points and flowing curves, fits this mood perfectly.
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The Persian Arch Connection: Iwan Architecture and the Moval Form
When I first began working with moval-profile stones, I was struck by how familiar the shape felt. It took me some time to identify why, and then it clicked. The moval silhouette mirrors the pointed arch of the iwan, one of the most iconic forms in Persian architecture.
An iwan is a monumental arched portal, open on one side, that serves as the entrance to mosques, palaces, and bazaars throughout the Persian world. The great iwans of Isfahan, Persepolis, and Shiraz are among the most breathtaking architectural achievements in human history. Their form is distinctive: a tall arch that rises to a gentle point, wider and more generous than a Gothic pointed arch, with a sense of both grandeur and welcome.
The parallel with the moval diamond is striking. Both shapes feature that characteristic combination of rounded volume and pointed culmination. Both create a sense of upward movement and direction without the sharpness of a true point. And both carry an inherent elegance that comes from occupying a middle ground, neither fully rounded nor fully pointed, but something more nuanced than either extreme.
This connection is more than aesthetic coincidence. Persian architecture, like fine jewellery, is fundamentally concerned with the interplay of light and form. The iwan is designed to capture and channel light, creating dramatic shadows and luminous surfaces. A well-cut moval diamond does precisely the same thing, channelling light through its facets to create brilliance and fire.
When I design a moval engagement ring at Silux London, I often draw on iwan architecture for the setting itself. The gallery beneath the stone might echo the vaulted interior of an iwan. The prongs might taper like the columns that frame a Persian archway. These are subtle references, visible only on close inspection, but they create a coherence between stone and setting that gives the ring a depth beyond its surface beauty.
Choosing a Setting for Your Moval Cut Diamond
The moval's hybrid nature means it responds beautifully to a range of setting styles, but certain approaches bring out its best qualities.
A solitaire setting with minimal prongs allows the moval's unique silhouette to speak for itself. I recommend a four-prong or six-prong setting that follows the stone's natural contour, with the prongs positioned to protect the soft points without obscuring them. In yellow gold, a moval solitaire has a warmth and simplicity that feels both modern and timeless.
A halo setting adds a border of smaller diamonds around the moval, amplifying its size and creating a frame that emphasises its distinctive shape. For a moval, I prefer a halo that follows the stone's exact outline rather than a standardised shape, so the pointed ends and curved sides are echoed in miniature by the surrounding stones.
An East-West setting rotates the moval horizontally across the finger. This is a bold choice that transforms the stone's character entirely. Set East-West, the moval's points extend towards the sides of the hand rather than along the finger, creating a wide, architectural profile that feels contemporary and distinctive. This orientation also draws on the horizontal emphasis found throughout Persian design.
A three-stone setting pairs the moval with complementary side stones. Pear-shaped or tapered baguette diamonds work particularly well, creating a flowing line that extends the moval's elongated form. For clients who want colour, sapphire or ruby side stones add a dimension of personality that makes the ring truly one of a kind.
The band itself offers further opportunities for personalisation. A tapered band that narrows towards the setting creates a visual flow that leads the eye to the moval. A knife-edge profile adds a sense of precision, whilst a more rounded comfort-fit band provides everyday wearability without sacrificing elegance.
Commissioning a Bespoke Moval Cut Ring at Silux London
Because the moval cut is not mass-produced, commissioning a bespoke ring is the natural path to owning one. At Silux London, the process begins with stone sourcing. I work with specialist diamond cutters and trusted suppliers to find moval diamonds that meet my standards for brilliance, symmetry and visual balance.
Not all movals are created equal. The ratio between length and width, the degree of point at each end, and the distribution of facets all affect how the stone performs on the hand. I evaluate each stone personally, looking for the specific combination of elongation, softness and light performance that makes a moval special. I will present you with options and explain the character of each stone so you can make an informed choice.
Once the stone is selected, the design process follows the same collaborative approach I bring to every Silux London commission. We discuss the setting style, the metal choice, any Persian architectural references that resonate with you, and the practical considerations of your daily life. I produce detailed CAD renders so you can see exactly how the finished ring will look before production begins.
The typical timeline for a bespoke moval engagement ring is four to eight weeks, depending on stone sourcing. Because movals are specialist stones, sourcing can occasionally take longer than standard shapes, but I keep you informed throughout and will not compromise on quality to meet a deadline.
Every ring is hallmarked in the UK and comes with full certification for the centre stone. The result is a ring that is rare in every sense. A rare shape, a rare design approach, and a rare connection between modern jewellery and ancient architectural beauty.
If the moval speaks to you, I would love to explore what it could become as your engagement ring. It is a shape that rewards those who look beyond the obvious, and that is precisely the kind of client I most enjoy working with.
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About the author: Hamed Arabuk is a British-Iranian jewellery designer, Goldsmiths' Craft and Design Council Award winner, and founder of Silux London.
