Art Deco jewellery remains one of the most sought-after styles in British fine jewellery. Here is why its influence endures and how bespoke designers are bringing it back.
The Geometry of Desire: Art Deco Jewellery and Its Eastern Roots
Art Deco is one of the most instantly recognisable design movements in history. Bold geometric lines, symmetrical compositions, and a confident modernity that still feels fresh a century later. But what many people do not realise is that the geometric language at the heart of Art Deco jewellery has roots that stretch far further back, and far further east, than 1920s Paris.
As a British-Iranian jeweller, I find myself drawn to this intersection constantly. The geometric patterns that define Art Deco are not inventions of the Jazz Age. They are echoes of centuries-old Islamic and Persian geometric art, filtered through the lens of European modernism. Understanding this connection transforms how you see Art Deco jewellery, and it is a thread that runs through much of my own work at Silux London.
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Subscribe FreeA Brief History of Art Deco Jewellery
The Art Deco movement emerged in the 1920s and reached its peak in the 1930s. It was a reaction against the organic, flowing forms of Art Nouveau. Where Art Nouveau celebrated curves, nature, and asymmetry, Art Deco embraced straight lines, sharp angles, and mathematical precision.
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In jewellery, this translated into pieces with strong architectural qualities. Think of the geometric brooches of Cartier, the calibrÔö£├ÂÔö£├éÔö¼├║├ö├Â┬╝Ôö¼┬¢-cut gemstone work of Van Cleef & Arpels, and the bold contrasts of black onyx against white diamond. The great Parisian maisons created pieces that looked as much like miniature buildings as they did ornaments.
The 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts DÔö£├ÂÔö£├éÔö¼├║├ö├Â┬╝Ôö¼┬¢coratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, from which the movement takes its name, was a turning point. Jewellers showcased pieces that drew on influences from ancient Egypt (following the discovery of Tutankhamun├ö├Â┬úÔö£├é├ö├Â┬úÔö£┬║├ö├Â┬úÔö£Ôòùs tomb in 1922), Japanese lacquerwork, African art, and, crucially, the geometric traditions of the Islamic world.
The Persian and Islamic Connection
Islamic geometric art is one of the great mathematical achievements of human civilisation. Developed from the 8th century onwards, Persian, Arab, and Moorish artisans created patterns of astonishing complexity using nothing more than a compass and straightedge. These patterns adorned mosques, palaces, and manuscripts across the Islamic world, from the Alhambra in Spain to the Shah Mosque in Isfahan.
The key principles of Islamic geometric design are remarkably similar to Art Deco aesthetics: symmetry, repetition, interlocking forms, and the use of geometry to create visual harmony. When European artists and designers encountered these patterns through travel, trade, and the great exhibitions of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, they were captivated.
This is not speculation. Art historians have documented the direct influence of Islamic geometric art on Art Deco design. The star patterns, arabesques, and tessellations of Persian architecture appear, reinterpreted, in Art Deco metalwork, architecture, and jewellery. The chevron pattern, the sunburst motif, the stepped pyramid form: all have precedents in Islamic decorative art.
In our Harf Collection, I explore this geometric language directly. The collection takes its name from the Persian word for ├ö├Â┬úÔö£├é├ö├Â┬úÔö£┬║├ö├Â┬╝Ôö£Ôòæletter├ö├Â┬úÔö£├é├ö├Â┬úÔö£┬║├ö├Â┬úÔö£ÔöÉ and translates the angular beauty of Persian calligraphy and geometric art into contemporary fine jewellery. Each piece uses precise geometric forms, the kind that connect a 12th-century mosque in Isfahan to a 1925 Parisian jewellery salon.
Filigree: The Art of Metal Lace
Filigree is one of the oldest and most demanding goldsmithing techniques, and it sits at the intersection of Art Deco geometry and Islamic craft tradition. The word comes from the Latin filum (thread) and granum (grain), describing the two elements of the technique: fine metal wire twisted into patterns, and tiny metal granules soldered into place.
Persian filigree (known as malileh) has been practised for thousands of years, and the city of Zanjan in northwestern Iran remains one of the world├ö├Â┬úÔö£├é├ö├Â┬úÔö£┬║├ö├Â┬úÔö£Ôòùs great centres of filigree craftsmanship. The technique requires extraordinary patience and precision: wires as thin as 0.2mm are twisted, curled, and soldered into intricate geometric and floral patterns.
In Art Deco jewellery, filigree was used extensively, particularly in the platinum pieces of the 1920s. The strength of platinum allowed jewellers to create incredibly delicate, lace-like settings that maximised the play of light through the metalwork. These pieces, with their geometric openwork patterns, are some of the most sought-after Art Deco jewels today.
At Silux London, I use modern techniques alongside traditional filigree principles. Our Golestan Collection draws on the garden motifs of Persian palace architecture, combining organic floral forms with the structured geometry that defines both Islamic art and Art Deco design. The result is jewellery that feels rooted in tradition while being entirely contemporary.
Geometric Patterns in Contemporary Jewellery
The appeal of geometric jewellery has never waned. While trends come and go, the mathematical precision of geometric design gives it a timeless quality. A well-proportioned geometric piece works as well with a silk blouse and tailored trousers as it does with an evening gown.
Today, the geometric tradition in jewellery is evolving. Modern CAD (computer-aided design) technology allows jewellers to create geometric patterns of a complexity that would have been impossible by hand. I use CAD extensively in my design process, but always with an awareness that the geometry I am drawing has a human origin: centuries of artisans working with compass and straightedge to unlock the mathematical beauty hidden in simple shapes.
What excites me most about working in this space is the opportunity to bridge cultures. When I design a piece that uses the geometric vocabulary of Persian art and presents it through the lens of contemporary British fine jewellery, I am participating in the same cross-cultural exchange that produced Art Deco in the first place. The Silk Road was not just a trade route for goods; it was a corridor for ideas, patterns, and aesthetics that reshaped the art of every culture it touched.
Choosing Art Deco-Inspired Jewellery
If you are drawn to Art Deco jewellery, whether vintage pieces or contemporary interpretations, here are a few things to consider:
Look for precision. The hallmark of great geometric jewellery is crisp, clean lines. In settings, the metalwork should be sharp and symmetrical. In stone-set pieces, the gems should be perfectly aligned.
Consider the design heritage. The best Art Deco-inspired jewellery does not simply copy 1920s motifs. It understands the deeper geometric principles and reinterprets them for today. Ask the designer about their influences and process.
Think about contrast. Art Deco jewellery often relies on contrast, whether in colour (sapphire and diamond, onyx and pearl), texture (polished and matte), or form (angular and curved). These contrasts give geometric pieces their visual energy.
Value craftsmanship. Geometric jewellery is unforgiving of poor execution. There is nowhere to hide a wobbly line or a misaligned setting. This is why the quality of the maker matters enormously. Seek out jewellers who combine design skill with technical mastery.
To explore pieces that bring together Persian geometric heritage and contemporary British goldsmithing, browse our Harf and Golestan collections, or get in touch about a bespoke commission inspired by Art Deco geometry.
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Persian design history, bespoke commission stories, and considered notes on fine jewellery. Join collectors who care about the craft behind the piece.
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